Van Conversion: How to Fit Seitz Windows

Of all the windows that we fitted in the van, fitting Seitz windows was definitely the easiest. I mean, they were all pretty easy to fit yourself, but we had issues both times with the bonded rear windows leaking so we had to get one re-fit both times and then the Fiamma Roof Vent was harder just because it involved two people and needing to go on the roof.

The Seitz windows are super easy. Simply cut the hole out, put some wood struts in to make the van wall thick enough to hold the window in, and then secure both sides of the window frame to the van. We’ve installed them 4 times (2 times in each van) and never had any problems with the windows leaking or coming loose.

The Supplies

* 18 x 28 mm planed wood
* Sika Sikaflex Ebt+ Adhesive, Sealant & Filler*
* Jigsaw with metal blade
* Drill with metal drillbit
* Masking Tape
* Seitz Windows

Step 1

It’s an obvious one, but choose where you’re going to place your window. Make sure you check the outside of the van too, as when we installed the windows in our first van, we were SO close to having the sliding door hit the top of the window – there was literally about 4mm distance for it to slide past, so just double check that you can fit it in, as the interior frame and the latches for the blinds stick out a little! Most of the van is easy to cut through, but the anti-vibration struts take a little longer.

Step 2

Make pilot holes with a drill – we usually do a few holes around each corner just to make it a little easier with the turning. Once the pilot holes are drilled, cut the hole out with the jigsaw. Once you’ve cut a couple sides, it’s easier to get some masking tape and secure the loose panel to the van, to stop the cut section from flapping around and it makes the final side a lot easier to cut.

Once you’ve cut the hole, sand down the edges to get rid of any sharp edges, brush away any loose metal dust to stop it rusting on the van, then coat the edges of the cut with anti-rust paint.

Step 3

As the van walls are a lot thinner than caravan walls, which the windows are designed to be fitted to, you’ll need to pad out the walls with wooden beams. We used 18 x 28mm wood, cut to size each side so that it fit snug around the exterior frame (the black frame). Once that’s done, just glue the wood onto the interior walls of the van with the Sikaflex adhesive, then wait for it to dry for an hour or so.

We also wanted to put up wood paneling around the window frame, so we cut the wood to size while we were waiting for the adhesive to dry, so that we could secure this in with the window. We also glued our insulation in place that would be behind the wood panel, then glued in some extra batons for the wooden panel to be screwed into, just to stop it moving around.

Step 4

Once that’s done and the adhesive is mostly dry, just secure the window in place. Start with the exterior part of the window frame first. The instructions say that it’s not necessary to use glue, but since the van walls are curved, most people use glue to ensure that it sticks with the curvature of the van, so we just put a little beading along the edge of the frame to secure it to the van.

Then secure the interior frame inside by screwing it in place! When we did the carpet lining, we just took the interior frame off and left a little of the carpet behind this to give it a nice finish, then screwed it back on.

And that’s it! It was so simple to do and only took a couple hours to do them both. We absolutely love them and definitely recommend them for a camper conversion.

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